By Domingo Soto

Photo Albums From Different Trips

Cuba Links

Cuba, an island that is geographically larger than all of the other Caribbean islands combined, is the same length as the state of Florida, sits at its doorstep and shares much history with this region.

Iberville, the founder of Mobile, is buried in Havana. Cuba's first Governor, Hernando de Soto, traveled near Mobile on his way to discover the Mississippi. The port cities of Mobile and Havana enjoyed extensive trading relationships for more than two centuries. (Cuban history and culture)

Many Mobilians remember childhood visits to Cuban resorts. Yet, we don't trade with it. Instead, we are engaged in an unsubtle war spawned by forty years of mutual hostility.

There are, however, some hopeful signs that the US may heed the Pope's exhortation to "change, change, change" our policy towards Cuba. There are now seven US/Cuban Sister Cities relationships. Mobile takes pride in being the first. (Cuban Sister Cities)

The Mobile-La Habana Society was formed in 1993 after City of Mobile Archivist Jay Higginbotham traveled to Havana and its ecumenical choir Shalom accepted his reciprocal invitation to sing here. The relationship was broadened in 1994 when Mayor Mike Dow and a large delegation of Mobilians visited Havana to exchange formalities.

The society has hosted more than fifteen Cuban groups here, and has sent at least twenty groups there. Many Cuban dignitaries have visited here, including the Deputy United Nations Minister and the Chief of the Cuban Interests Section. (Based in Washington, D.C., and Havana, each country's "Interests Section" serves as de facto embassy for the two countries who officially do not have diplomatic relations. The chief of the Interest Section is the equivalent of an ambassador.)

On a recent trip by the Society to Cuba in November, 1998 twenty one Mobile journalists, city officials, academics, businesspeople, and lawyers traveled there to visit and to deliver humanitarian aid to churches and synagogues. The most recent trip in 2001 was a trip by medical professionals who visited there and hope to exchange personnel and ideas.

During the 1998 trip, Daphne minister Rev. William Fontaine, Alabama delivered a sermon at the Martin Luther King Center. Higginbotham, gave a speech to the delegates of the Sixth Annual Ibero-Americano Solidarity Conference at the National Assembly Hall, the venue where Fidel Castro gives his marathon orations. Higginbotham's remarks were immediately followed by those of Ricardo Alarcon de Quesada, President of the National Assembly of People's Power and touted by some to be Castro's successor.

The United States Chamber of Commerce has organized Americans for Humanitarian Trade with Cuba, a powerful lobbying group consisting of the most conservative voices in business. President Clinton had eased restrictions on travel to Cuba and the amount of money relatives could send there. 

"The debate to end the embargo is no longer if, but when. The President's recommendations must be followed by the far reaching, positive results of lifting the Cuban embargo," the Chamber's President announced. USA Engage was organized and has behind it the collective might of high-powered US firms such as Archer Daniels Midland, Caterpillar, and others.

In the United Nations 143 countries have gone on record as asking the US to end the embargo and even 24 top Republicans have officially asked President Clinton to reevaluate he policy. Cuba boasts of some important natural resources such as cobalt, nickel, iron ore, copper, manganese, salt, timber, silica, and petroleum. Tourism has now surpassed Sugar as the island's economic mainstay and has been touted by the Cubans as the "heart of the economy". (Analysis)

No wonder. Cuba has significant natural resources - pristine beaches, artificial reefs, exotic flora and fauna and a history of tourism. (Flora and fauna) Cuban tourism had been so developed that by the 1940s 275,000 tourists visited the island, almost three fourths of them from the United States. Immediately prior to The Cuban Revolution its tourism industry was the most advanced in the area, accounting for a third of the Carribean's market share. Of course, the number of visitors to the island fell precipitously during the 60s and 70s. (Dissent)

But, in 1982 the Cuban government recognized tourism as a potential area for exploitation. Driven no doubt by the looming personal crisis brought on by the breakup of the Soviet Union, in 1992 they prioritized it as an essential element of the country's economic plan. (Cuban infrastructure)

The economic crisis had worsened in Cuba, its capacity for importation reduced some 73 per cent from the previous three years, a 35 per cent loss of GDP. They began developing economic arrangements with foreigners in order to exploit their formidable natural resources, and to help jumpstart their other developing basic industries.

It was a propitious decision. The number of visitors to the island doubled during the decade of the 80s and tourism began to rival sugar, minerals and biotechnology as a prime source of revenue. The rate of growth for the tourism industry now has it doubling its numbers every five years. (how to get there)

In 1992, 460,000 persons visited the island bringing an influx of cash to the tune of about $530 million. In order to harness this beast the Cuban government has entered into development ventures with Spanish, Mexican, Canadian and other European companies. When you stay at a

hotel in Cuba it is often partially owned or managed by a foreign company. (a list of some)

This may be why senior level executives from US airlines, hotels, and financial service companies have recently traveled as guests of the Cuban government on what are called "familiarization tours".

Are the Cubans really turning it around? By 1994 the Cubans hoped that they had righted the overturned canoe that was their economy with a reported reversal of the precipitous downward trend, a slight in economic growth. In 1995, the GDP increased by 2.5% and by 7.8% in 1996. Export earnings rose an estimated 40% in 1996 to $2.1 billion. Imports rose for the second straight year, growing by an estimated 26% to $3.5 billion.

A short flight from Cancun, Cuba. A few inconsistencies mark the terrain as foreign. But, it's your typical, busy, modern and beautiful airport terminal. It's brand-spanking-new. Before there had been two dismal hangers. Our first trip, a five-hour landlubber hell boat ride from the Keys had ended with an interminable wait at Hemmingway Marina. (going by boat?) Cuban Customs couldn't figure out what to do with us. This time, the boat traveling as part of our group is forced to follow procedure and report to Havana harbor.

At the airport our bags are now inspected by x-ray and the Customs inspection is cursory. The terminal is packed. Police presence is ubiquitous, as expected. I saw him spot me. He was a city block away and made a beeline for me. Courteous and overly gracious the elderly uniformed man inspects my passport and bags, even my wallet, as we discuss the purpose of my trip.

It wasn't until I got to Cancun that I considered the issue of a laptop, thanks to a huge sign there that lists every electrical device known to man as being prohibited. My laptop and digital cameras had passed baggage inspection and were now on my back. The officer, obviously still suspicious, is nonetheless mollified. "Have a pleasant stay in our country, sir."

Cuba is like the Puerto Rico of my youth. The terminal is packed, tourists coming in and going out and Cubans there to pick up relatives. Outside, there is a line of taxis like the one we just left in Mexico. Efficiently, briskly, we had been guided to a cab, our bags in tow. But, thanks to the Cuban grapevine, our friend was there to pick us up.

We crammed our bags into every nook and cranny of Danis' 1949 Chevy and piled in. He was proud of having his carrito and at the inventiveness with which the car has been kept alive. He laughed, derisively pointing out the bicycle light that served as a dashboard indicator. (Cars) He knew we are used to better but he was grateful for what he had and we were grateful that he had come to get us. Reminiscing, here again, we were in Havana.

Twenty minutes into our arrival, however, we were under a street light on the side of the road in an urban part of Havana going through an interrogation that was both ludicrous and scary. We had come twelve days after the Cuban authorities announced that they were cracking down and their presence was ubiquitous.

While the crime rate in Cuba is amazingly low, the visibility of the jineteras (loosely speaking, prostitutes) and the possibility that there might be a perception that crime and drug use are increasing spawned a crackdown. (Jineterismo) The police officers believed our friend was a botero (gypsy cab) someone who refuses to pay the private licensing fee that is part of the new economic agenda.

We get stopped near the university. Danis goes out to speak with the police, leaving me instructions not to say anything. "They're going to arrest him," his wife says. "Why?" I ask. I have fallen into a cultural sinkhole. Ever since the Pope's visit the Cuban authorities have been cracking down and their presence is everywhere. Articles like Havana at 3 a.m., (Esquire, May, 1995), detailing the sexual antics of tourists and jineteras probably didn't help the situation either.

Botero, like Jinetera is an epithet. A botero is, literally, someone who persons a boat. In the old days little boats would carry passengers, plying point-to-point along Havana harbor. In addition, to the illegal botero there are private cabs that are authorized to drive Cubans along certain routes, much like the publico (jitney) in Puerto Rico. Getting a cab in the non tourist parts of Havana can turn out to be an ordeal. Except for the cars that are marked as taxis, it's hard to know who is legal and who is not.

If you're in a tourist area take a regular cab. There's always some Cuban that is willing to take the risk of driving you around but on our last trip the police were stopping everyone. One of our drivers was stopped and we spent an hour at the local police station while they questioned him. If you're on the outskirts, it's really dicey. Some cars will pick you up but will not take you to a tourist section because they are afraid of getting picked up by the police.

In 1996, the government announced an increase in taxes on much of Cuba's cottage industry. Consequently, the number of legally registered self-employed workers dropped and that is another reason for the crackdown. The penalty for illegal cab activity is a fine and possibly the loss of the vehicle. We spent another hour trying to convince them that he truly is a friend that we have known for years.

Jump to Part Two